Pork Fillet, Beetroot Relish, and Horseradish Crostini

Makes about 20 crostini, enough for a generous starter

This is the kind of thing you put out the moment guests start arriving, easy, make-ahead, and just fancy enough to feel like an occasion. The pork is brined first, which is the only way I will cook it these days, since it stays juicy and tender with none of the risk of drying out. Layered with The Larder's beetroot relish, earthy, fruity, and generously spiced, and a sharp hit of fresh horseradish, it is a small bite that punches well above its size.

For the pork

• 1 pork loin

• 500ml cold water

• 50g fine salt

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

For the crostini

• 1 French stick, sliced into finger-width pieces

• olive oil

• salt

To assemble

• 200g crème fraîche

• 2 tsp fresh horseradish, grated (good quality creamed horseradish if you can't find it fresh)

• 1 jar The Larder's Beetroot Relish

• chives, thinly sliced

• extra virgin olive oil, to finish

• flaky sea salt, to finish

Method

1. Start with the pork, and start it early. Combine the cold water, salt, bay leaf, and peppercorns, then submerge the pork loin in the brine. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. This is what keeps the meat properly tender and well seasoned all the way through, and it is far too easy a step to skip.

2. Remove the pork from the brine and pat it thoroughly dry. Heat a pan to medium, oil and season the fillet, then cook, turning occasionally, until it reaches an internal temperature of 68°C. Carry-over heat will bring it up to a perfect 75°C as it rests, so pull it before you think it's ready. Rest completely, then let it cool before slicing as thinly as your sharpest knife allows. Set aside for assembly.

3. While the pork cooks and rests, oil and salt the bread and lay it out on a tray. Toast in a preheated 170°C oven for 15 minutes, or until golden, keeping a close eye near the end so you land on crisp rather than jaw-breaking.

4. Stir the horseradish through the crème fraîche and smear a small amount onto each crostini.

5. Layer over a piece or two of the sliced pork, a spoonful of beetroot relish, a little more grated horseradish if you have it, and a good scattering of chives. Finish each with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of flaky sea salt.